Eaten Path: Geoduck skewers and smoked cod doughnuts at the Willows Inn on Lummi Island in Washington

Unless you live on Lummi Island, a small island among the San Juans between Seattle and the Canadian border, a meal at the Willows Inn is as much a pilgrimage as it is just a dinner.

The tasting menu restaurant is nestled among a tangle of wooden cabins where you can stay the night, or you can…